We have left Mauao far behind. With each new town and each new stretch of coastline come new faces, new expressions, new friendships, and new activities on the totally-worth-the-money must-do-before-you-die list.
In Mauao Bryan and I met a lovely backpacker from Germany named Julia who checked into our Mt. Maunganui hostel two nights before our scheduled departure date. We learned that she was headed south- along the coast of the bay of plenty to a “very underrated” town in New Zealand: Whakatane.
Whakatane is, among other things, a very important historical town. It is where the very first Maori canoes (“waka”) first landed in New Zealand about 600 years ago (a land they called “Aoteora”: Land of the long white cloud).
In Mauao Bryan and I met a lovely backpacker from Germany named Julia who checked into our Mt. Maunganui hostel two nights before our scheduled departure date. We learned that she was headed south- along the coast of the bay of plenty to a “very underrated” town in New Zealand: Whakatane.
Whakatane is, among other things, a very important historical town. It is where the very first Maori canoes (“waka”) first landed in New Zealand about 600 years ago (a land they called “Aoteora”: Land of the long white cloud).
The first day we explored some important Maori cultural landmarks around the Koi Point walkway (a very hilly path that I ran down quite fast: video soon!) We took a drink and washed our faces in the Wairere falls and poked our heads in the Maki caves. We wrapped up our day trip by visiting a Marae “meeting house” which functions as a modern day clubhouse where functions are held and modern Maori meet to discuss issues important to the preservation and progression of their culture. The carvings inside were awe-inspiring: intricate designs of ancient ancestors posing with protruded tongues and bulging eyeballs- by the dozens. There wasn't an inch of wood that wasn't chiseled and shaped.
The highlight of Whakatane, though, was our visit to White Island: New Zealand’s only active marine volcano. About 49 k’s off the coast of New Zealand, White Island is either a two hour boat ride or 20 minute helicopter ride away. Naturally we took the boat because, well, we’re not Richard Branson. It’s a good thing too, because we ran into a gang of dolphins on our way. Julia, Bryan or I have never until then seen dolphins in the wild. It was an awesome bonus to the day: seeing the dolphins poke their fins and backs up through the glittering morning water was an extremely mystical experience. The calm before the volcano's storm, so to speak.
The volcano was, well, incredible. Here we could see that the Earth truly is alive: active, destructive, powerful. The colours alone: brilliant yellow sulphur, bold red iron, crystal white calcium- all layered among steaming water, boiling mud and sulphuric acid.
We were decked out pretty good- we never felt truly in danger but the stories of eruptions or changes in volcanic activity were enough to keep us on edge just a little bit. Our guide showed us a 60kg rock and the three craters it made when it bounced twice (twice!) from being hurled our of the crater from heat and pressure. Pretty impressive stuff. Also the air was acidic- vinegar-like from all the sulphur. It tickled or burned your throat and sinuses in a way that let you know that the sheer chemistry of the earth is enough to make us fragile humans uncomfortable.
We were told that all materials have a short shelf life when they are exposed to White Island's acidic air for too long- steel, leather, wool, clothes, teeth. Everything eventually dissolves.
The hostel in Whakatane was quiet- a much needed repose from all the stress and activity from Alberta, Auckland and the Mount. There was lots of chess and pool throughout the evenings. Julia and ourselves pooled our resources and cooked some awesome nourishing dinners for ourselves- we had worked up quite a deep appetite over a week and a half of plain pasta and tuna sandwiches.
We were in Whakatane so briefly it seems like more of a dream. We hardly even unpacked. We’re definitely getting better at this traveling thing, though. Bryan is the new designated navigator (I could see that one coming from a mile away) and I’m misplacing things only semi-frequently now (my luck on finding them, though, is yet to run out).
We even cut each other’s hair. Anything to save a dollar.
Since Whakatane we've made our way with Julia to Rotorua, where the Hostel is also extremely comfortable and the people incredible. It's amazing how quickly a tight-knit community can be formed over a few beers, some cards, and teaching each other to swear in your native language.
Everyone here looks to live an authentic, passionate lifestyle filled with life-altering experiences and activities.
But, after all the activities- after the endless walking, bus-booking, map-turning, and pushing forward to the next city- when the sun crawls down toward the horizon, there’s always time to fall asleep with your hat on your face, to lay in the shade with a blade of grass in your teeth, or just sit and stare at the rolling hills in the distance.
And those are the moments when we feel truly free.
Kia Ora,
-K